First impressions
So here I am.
The flight into Baghdad is a bit of a laugh, instead of a straight descent the plane comes down in big loops because a straight descent is considered too dangerous. I'm told the take off is the same when you fly out, and because you're pointing upwards instead of down, motion sickness is a problem. NASA could probably recruit from these flights - if your stomach is strong enough you're in!
I was brought to the Green Zone (called the International Zone or IZ by everyone here, so that's what I'll start using) in a PSD (personal security detail) convoy. Before I came, I had the impression or expectation that the PSD guys would be a bunch of Rambo's with no necks and steroid addictions, but actually the ones I have come across have been very professional and focused on their job. They look after you and make sure you know what to do in the event of any trouble. IEDs (roadside bombs) are not so much an issue now because vehicles have to be searched to even get onto the road, so the more common issue is incoming automatic fire. The armoured vehicle you're in has 2 inch thick windows so even if there is incoming, it's not a problem. Plus there are armed vehicles front and back of the convoy with guys out the roof with machine guns so you have extra protection there.
It's very weird being in a place where you can walk down the street freely, go to the beer shop, sit on the swinging sun lounger thing on the front lawn and have a smoke, while there are people being blown up within a few miles. At night instead of police sirens you hear helicopters, but it all means the same thing - someone's having a much worse time of it than me. Instead of a normal fence there's an 8 foot one with razor wire. Instead of a postman there are armed guards. You get the idea. I'm not sure whether it's because of these things or in spite of them, but I really like it here. It will be better when I have my badge and can move around freely and use things like the pool and gym, dining facility ("DFAC") and the big general shop ("PX") which is basically Tesco Armed Conflict, but for now it's all new and exciting so not having those freedoms is no biggie. It beats being blown up by a car bomb. We have Iraqis working for us and they sometimes have to go out into the Red Zone to go to one of the Interior Ministry buildings. One of them went out today and 10 minutes ahead of him was that car bomb that killed 5 Iraqi police. He was fine, just had to go another way round. This is reality for these folks. They've been through a hell of a time but still have spirit like you'd never believe.
I'm learning a new Arabic word or phrase each day and really like being able to say little things to the Iraqis in their language. They have good English, but you can tell they have pride in their language and like to teach you, and appreciate the effort. Like most nationalities I guess, except maybe the French who live in Paris, who get the arse with you just for being there.
It's pretty hot in the daytime, usually around 42 - 46 celcius, but it doesn't feel as hot as that because there is low humidity. It's still the hottest midday sun I've ever experienced but in the shade it's not too bad. It's showing signs of cooling down though, and by Christmas time it will be hovering not far above freezing. The nights will start to get cooler next week. On days when it is windy, there is a lot of dust. It makes the Northern Line look like a Swiss mountain railway. The locals are sneezing a lot but so far it hasn't affected me at all, except for one night when I felt like I'd been sitting in an airport smoking lounge for a couple of days.
The flight into Baghdad is a bit of a laugh, instead of a straight descent the plane comes down in big loops because a straight descent is considered too dangerous. I'm told the take off is the same when you fly out, and because you're pointing upwards instead of down, motion sickness is a problem. NASA could probably recruit from these flights - if your stomach is strong enough you're in!
I was brought to the Green Zone (called the International Zone or IZ by everyone here, so that's what I'll start using) in a PSD (personal security detail) convoy. Before I came, I had the impression or expectation that the PSD guys would be a bunch of Rambo's with no necks and steroid addictions, but actually the ones I have come across have been very professional and focused on their job. They look after you and make sure you know what to do in the event of any trouble. IEDs (roadside bombs) are not so much an issue now because vehicles have to be searched to even get onto the road, so the more common issue is incoming automatic fire. The armoured vehicle you're in has 2 inch thick windows so even if there is incoming, it's not a problem. Plus there are armed vehicles front and back of the convoy with guys out the roof with machine guns so you have extra protection there.
It's very weird being in a place where you can walk down the street freely, go to the beer shop, sit on the swinging sun lounger thing on the front lawn and have a smoke, while there are people being blown up within a few miles. At night instead of police sirens you hear helicopters, but it all means the same thing - someone's having a much worse time of it than me. Instead of a normal fence there's an 8 foot one with razor wire. Instead of a postman there are armed guards. You get the idea. I'm not sure whether it's because of these things or in spite of them, but I really like it here. It will be better when I have my badge and can move around freely and use things like the pool and gym, dining facility ("DFAC") and the big general shop ("PX") which is basically Tesco Armed Conflict, but for now it's all new and exciting so not having those freedoms is no biggie. It beats being blown up by a car bomb. We have Iraqis working for us and they sometimes have to go out into the Red Zone to go to one of the Interior Ministry buildings. One of them went out today and 10 minutes ahead of him was that car bomb that killed 5 Iraqi police. He was fine, just had to go another way round. This is reality for these folks. They've been through a hell of a time but still have spirit like you'd never believe.
I'm learning a new Arabic word or phrase each day and really like being able to say little things to the Iraqis in their language. They have good English, but you can tell they have pride in their language and like to teach you, and appreciate the effort. Like most nationalities I guess, except maybe the French who live in Paris, who get the arse with you just for being there.
It's pretty hot in the daytime, usually around 42 - 46 celcius, but it doesn't feel as hot as that because there is low humidity. It's still the hottest midday sun I've ever experienced but in the shade it's not too bad. It's showing signs of cooling down though, and by Christmas time it will be hovering not far above freezing. The nights will start to get cooler next week. On days when it is windy, there is a lot of dust. It makes the Northern Line look like a Swiss mountain railway. The locals are sneezing a lot but so far it hasn't affected me at all, except for one night when I felt like I'd been sitting in an airport smoking lounge for a couple of days.
posted by symmetry at 11:26 PM
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